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Rivet or Bolt ?

Viceroy

Joined: 14-10-14

Topics: 13

Replies: 18

Posted: Fri 16th Dec 2016, 12:16pm
Rivet or Bolt ?

Gentlemen,
Advice please,

I am about to complete the frames and buffer beams for my 7 1/4 G Hunslet Loco, is it best to rivet the angles to the buffer beams and bolt the frame to them or rivet the lot together ? Any advice would be most appreciated
 

Replies To This Post

Mick

Joined: 1-01-89

Topics: 7

Replies: 114

Posted: Fri 16th Dec 2016, 3:39pm

Bolts for me. That includes using slotless round head bolts on things like bodywork to represent rivets, but not for frames/buffer beams. Rivets offer one advantage over threaded bolts. They won’t loosen when subjected to vibration. But, compared to bolts, they are time consuming and hard work to install, and you can end up with 'eyebrows' around the rivet heads if you don't locate the dolly on the head accurately. Disassembly with nuts and bolts is easy if needed, but definitely not with rivets. I use good HT bolts, not cheap ones which could shear, and threadlock.
 

Peter Beevers

Joined: 9-10-01

Topics: 3

Replies: 134

Posted: Fri 16th Dec 2016, 4:41pm

100% with Mick, bolts every time. Easier to use and much better when you find you need to take it apart again.
 

Xz

Joined: 1-01-92

Topics: 17

Replies: 244

Posted: Fri 16th Dec 2016, 5:09pm

I have to say that I don't concur with Mick or Pete on this one. Bolts just don't look right on buffer beams. Rivet the angle irons to the beam, and bolt through the chassis. Riveting isn't that difficult especially if you can get someone to hold it all square for you, and develop a good technique. Yes you need the right snaps etc. but not that difficult to obtain. If you bodge one, chisel off the head, punch it through, and start again. After a few you'll get the hang of it. Cold snapping 1/4" rivets is fine, any bigger and you might want to consider heated.
 

Viceroy

Joined: 14-10-14

Topics: 13

Replies: 18

Posted: Sat 17th Dec 2016, 5:32pm

Mick, Peter, Xz, thanks for your comments, most helpful, I intend to rivet the buffer beams to the brackets and bolt the brackets to the frames as per Mike and Peters comments, just one other point, as I am now going to use High Tensile 1/4" bolts is it best to use split washers under the nuts ? NY lock nuts? or just plain nuts torqued up etc.

Mike Peter Xz thanks for your input most helpful,

 

Peter Beevers

Joined: 9-10-01

Topics: 3

Replies: 134

Posted: Sat 17th Dec 2016, 7:37pm

For a steam or electric loco: tighten the standard nuts up, then paint the lot. For petrol, nylocks. For a diesel: nylocks with spring washers underneath and loctite on the threads.
 

Viceroy

Joined: 14-10-14

Topics: 13

Replies: 18

Posted: Sun 18th Dec 2016, 12:35pm

tightening the nuts and paint " will be the way forward "

Thanks Peter
 

Jordanleeds

Joined: 12-12-16

Topics: 1

Replies: 8

Posted: Thu 22nd Dec 2016, 10:15pm

When I was assembling my very large diesel I drilled the holes marginally undersized and bolted them up, the closer fitting you can get the better in my eyes, fitted Bolts would of been even better but I wasn't going to do 500 of them
 

Viceroy

Joined: 14-10-14

Topics: 13

Replies: 18

Posted: Fri 23rd Dec 2016, 2:08pm

Thank you Jordanleeds, i have used a new 1/4 inch drill for the twelve holes in the two frames, checked today and a nice tight fit with the new UNC Bolts, so thanks again for your comments,

To All on our Forum Happy Christmas and a Safe New Year
 
 
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