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Milner Hunslet

roystonthomas

Joined: 1-01-85

Topics: 5

Replies: 16

Posted: Fri 23rd Nov 2012, 6:44pm
Milner Hunslet

Hi All, Can anyone please provide some guidance or a proven design for using a ball valve as the regulator instead of the original Milner design which I am told is not reliable? The boiler is a copper one by John Ellis, but the regulator boss on the backhead has not yet been drilled/threaded. Thanks in advance guys if anyone can help.
 

Replies To This Post

Peter Beevers

Joined: 9-10-01

Topics: 3

Replies: 134

Posted: Fri 23rd Nov 2012, 9:21pm

I started (but never finished) a Milner Hunslet several years ago, and intended to use a ball valve as a regulator. The problem is the small size of the dome - there's not a lot of room in there to fiddle about. I had John fit the steam pipe in, plus a plate near the top of the dome to bolt the valve to. The idea was that I would fit a compression joint to the bottom of the valve (on to the output steam pipe), then make a plate to fit to the top of the valve to bolt it on to the plate in the dome. There would then be a plate further down to screw a boos into to make a lever for the actuating rod, which the regulator rod would turn. It all sounds complicated but it's actually quite simple - the issue is the lack of space in the done which means it'll be quite fiddly.
I probably haven't explained it all very well - so if you want I can email you a sketch of what I planned to do.
Peter
 

marshall5

Joined: 1-01-70

Topics: 1

Replies: 7

Posted: Sat 24th Nov 2012, 9:52am

I have just fitted a ball valve regulator to the new boiler for my Milner Hunslet as the attached picture shows. There wasn't really anything wrong with the design of the old regulator - only a very slight blow. I used a 1/2"BSP right angle ball valve with an extended shaft and hung it from a bracket in the top of the dome. If you need any further help just ask.Regards Ray.
I have just fitted a ball valve regulator to the new boiler for my Milner Hunslet as the attached picture shows. There wasn't really anything wrong with the design of the old regulator - only a very slight blow. I used a 1/2"BSP right angle ball valve with an extended shaft and hung it from a bracket in the top of the dome. If you need any further help just ask.Regards Ray.
 

marshall5

Joined: 1-01-70

Topics: 1

Replies: 7

Posted: Sat 24th Nov 2012, 10:00am

This is the ball valve with the extended shaft trial fitted. I re-used the original stuffing box,modified to give more support to the shaft and provide more stuffing space. Hope this helps. Ray.
This is the ball valve with the extended shaft trial fitted. I re-used the original stuffing box,modified to give more support to the shaft and provide more stuffing space. Hope this helps. Ray.
 

roystonthomas

Joined: 1-01-85

Topics: 5

Replies: 16

Posted: Sat 24th Nov 2012, 2:20pm

Thanks to Peter and Ray for your replies. Could you possibly supply details or a sketch of the gland through the back head which incorporates the quadrant?
 

marshall5

Joined: 1-01-70

Topics: 1

Replies: 7

Posted: Sat 24th Nov 2012, 7:40pm

I used the plate,stuffing box and quadrant off the old regulator which was made to the drawings - mainly because the new boiler had already been made to the drawings! The main modification I made was to silver solder a bronze bush 1 5/8" dia X 3/4" thick to back of the plate which contains the stuffing box (which I also deepened).I thought this would help support the regulator rod and thus the ball valve. The old quadrant didn't quite allow 90 degrees of movement but the ball valve has limit pins on it so it isn't really necessary. Sorry I didn't photograph it before assembly. Regards Ray.
I used the plate,stuffing box and quadrant off the old regulator which was made to the drawings - mainly because the new boiler had already been made to the drawings! The main modification I made was to silver solder a bronze bush 1 5/8" dia X 3/4" thick to back of the plate which contains the stuffing box (which I also deepened).I thought this would help support the regulator rod and thus the ball valve. The old quadrant didn't quite allow 90 degrees of movement but the ball valve has limit pins on it so it isn't really necessary. Sorry I didn't photograph it before assembly. Regards Ray.
 

roystonthomas

Joined: 1-01-85

Topics: 5

Replies: 16

Posted: Tue 11th Dec 2012, 3:18pm

Hello Ray, I've now got a right angle ball valve and taken it apart to see how to extend the shaft. The ball valve shaft just fits into a recess in the ball and is held in place by the back nut. Did you just silver solder the stainless steel extension to the ball valve brass shaft? It is M6 male thread on my valve. I've got a length of 5/16 PB102 to use as the extended shaft rather than stainless. Any thoughts?
 

marshall5

Joined: 1-01-70

Topics: 1

Replies: 7

Posted: Wed 12th Dec 2012, 11:39am

I'm sure the PB102 will be fine - and easier to silver solder.I didn't take the ball valve apart - I drilled and tapped the new regulator rod M6 to suit the existing valve stem.I made a short sleeve (1"or so,not critical)about 3/8"/10mm OD and 5/16" ID which was silver soldered half on half off the regulator rod.This assembly was then screwed onto the M6 male thread on the valve and cross drilled for a s/s split pin to stop it unscrewing. It's harder to explain than make! Let me know if I can help further.Ray.
 

robertoldfield

Joined: 13-07-11

Topics: 0

Replies: 1

Posted: Sat 19th Jul 2014, 6:21pm

Message for "marshall5" - I'm going down the same route with my Milner Hunslet and would value your help. Please could you tell me the exact designation of the right-angle valve you used. Thanks.
 
 
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